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July 17, 2008
Notable Hollywood Eyebrows Part II

Marsha Hunt applies her own make-up
As a model, I had always applied my own make-up. For my screen test at Paramount I was sent to the Make-Up Department, inwardly thrilled to be in the hands of the very experts who prepared so many famous faces for work each day. But when they finished, what I saw in the mirror left me stunned. I had never seen her before and wasn't sure I wanted to see her ever again.
My eyebrows had been plucked away and reshaped into narrow arcs, changing my whole expression; my lashes were overlaid with strips of long, false fake ones, making me feel droopy-lidded; eye shadow applied immediately above the eyes, white liner was drawn between eyes and lower lashes; my nose had a lightening line down its center to make it look chiseled and narrower, and my lipstick rounded the cupid's bow, extending above the natural line.
They simply had given me all the make-up touches that were then in vogue. With no delusions of being a beauty, I just felt altered, rather than enhanced. I comforted myself that surely it would photograph better than that. But when I finally saw my screen test, there was that strange girl again looking very odd, at least to me. I'll never know why they signed me, looking like that. I vowed then, always to do my own make-up thereafter, and with the exception of old-age roles, always did.
Thus writes Marsha Hunt in her invaluable The Way We Wore, Styles of the 1930's and '40's. Hunt, an actress of exceptional range, was signed by Paramount in 1935 when she was just 17-years old. The ex-model was cast in twelve films during her three year contract and then signed by MGM.
Marsha Hunt's book is a fascinating and informative study of Hollywood's Golden Age through the prism of style. A ferociously intelligent beauty, Hunt observes and comments on the harshness of studio make-up, changing hair styles, hats, shoes, fur muffs, cuffs and collars, handbags and pocket books. She even finds time to illustrate the high style of automobiles .

Cecile B. DeMille and Marsha Hunt in the director's magnificent Cord phaeton, parked in front of The DeMille Bungalow on Paramount's lot, 1936
There are hundreds of photos—all of Hunt—modeling various outfits for the studio publicity mill. A touching memoir and an encyclopedia of fashion, Hunt's volume is an invaluable reference to Hollywood's role in defining style and fashion.
Hunt's startled reflection on her heavy make-up and screen test is revealing. The clash between the reality of her true self with the manufactured Hollywood image was deeply alienating for the unusually self-aware young actress. No wonder Lana Turner wryly commented on her seven disastrous marriages: “The problem is that men marry Lana Turner—and wake up next to me.” Turner, unlike Marsh, was incapable of bridging the gap between who she was and her larger-than-life screen image.
Last week, in Notable Hollywood Eyebrows, Part I, I pointed out that the Flappers of the 20's were in the vanguard of pitiless eyebrow plucking. One of Seraphic Secret's readers, a brilliant cultural observer, wrote to me with this fascinating bit of cultural information:
Flappers were the first group of women outside of prostitutes to shave their legs and armpits. They changed the world, depilation-wise.
Okay, let's go to the visuals:

Hedy Lamarr

Gloria Swanson

Vivien Leigh

Joan Marsh

Claudette Colbert

Eleanor Boardman

Dorothy Lamour

Irene Dunne

Louise Brooks
And here, caught in a rare, candid moment, our two reigning champs of mercilessly plucked eyebrows:

Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich
Posted by Robert J. Avrech at July 17, 2008 10:08 AM
Comments
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Reading about Marsha Hunt's experience made me laugh. I was once talked into dying my blonde-ish eyelashes dark brown. I don't recommend this unless you are going for the racoon look. Took about three weeks to wear off. No one could listen to me without furrowing their brow and staring at my eyes with a concerned expression.
Marsha Hunt was a beauty.
Great picture of Vivien Leigh.
Posted by: Alice at July 17, 2008 12:23 PM
" ... mercilessly plucked eyebrows ... "
today,
this happens often as a result of chemotherapy
there are permanent eyebrow tatoo treatments available
classic, custom tattooing, any style or color
or,
for those whose complexions go well with it,
henna
an unusual side-effect of this,
is that,
as the eyebrows look 'real'
and they are also wearing wigs,
and expect the hair to grow back,
and don't bother with a
'custom human hair sheitel'
for something this temporary,
they are occasional mistaken as being Orthodox ...
Posted by: exdemexlib at July 17, 2008 01:29 PM
Interesting discussion. I had always been upset that my mother's eyebrows don't exist, sacrificed to "merciless plucking," as you say, and in their place is a brown line drawn in with some kind of pencil. It always looked terribly artificial and strange to me, even a little grotesque. Now I know where it comes from--the thirties and forties look. We are all slaves to the styles of the past. I wouldn't dream of parting my hair differently than I always do, although I recognize the style in movies from the fifties and the sixties.
Posted by: Barz at July 17, 2008 02:25 PM
"Bollywood actresses are known for a certain look: dark, flowing hair, crimson lips -- and soaring, perfectly arched eyebrows. How do they create those face-framing curves? Most rely on threading, a popular Indian and Middle Eastern depilatory technique that's becoming increasingly available at salons around town."
Can you imagine if Hollywood of the thirties and forties had caught on to this technique?
Thanks for those beautiful photos of actresses of yesteryear.
Posted by: Pearl at July 17, 2008 03:16 PM
Perhaps Groucho's eyebrows were in direct response to these women of that era.
Posted by: cruisin-mom at July 17, 2008 04:46 PM
Thanks for this post, Robert (and for the lovely picture of Gloria Swanson). I'd never heard of Marsha Hunt's book, but I'll have to order it today.
And wouldn't it be wonderful to ride in the back of that Cord with Miss Hunt and C.B., just to spend time with them?
Posted by: Christopher at July 18, 2008 06:27 AM
Alice:
Funny you should mention The "racoon look." I'm planning a photo essay on that specific style.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech
at July 20, 2008 07:36 AM
Exdem:
Yes, I've seen this look in the Oncology wards in LA and NY.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech
at July 20, 2008 07:39 AM
Barz:
It's true that we are all slaves to fashion. But some of us are much more conscious of it than others.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech
at July 20, 2008 08:23 AM
Pearl:
Thanks so much for the fascinating information about Bollywood make-up. Glad you enjoy the pics.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech
at July 20, 2008 08:25 AM
If I may request....how about one on Esther Williams? No pressure. : ) I was just watching "That's Entertainment" and was reminded of how zany and amazing some of those big water numbers are.
Posted by: Alice at July 21, 2008 05:56 AM
Cruisin' Mom:
I was actually going to post a pic of Groucho and his massive eyebrows, but then decided it wasn't fair. He is, after all, male.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech
at July 21, 2008 12:29 PM
Christopher:
I would love to be seated in that Cord. Boy, they don't build 'em like they used to, do they?
Enjoy Hunt's book. It's brilliant.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech
at July 21, 2008 12:32 PM
Alice:
Do I have to actually sit down and screen Million Dollar Mermaid?
Oy-vey.
The things I do for my readers:-)
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech
at July 21, 2008 12:35 PM
I heard that Lana Turner quote attributed to Rita Hayworth, saying, "Every man wants to go to bed with Gilda, but they wake up with me."
Posted by: Bill Walsh at July 26, 2008 09:43 PM
And my sincerest condolences on the loss of your son. Alav ha-shalom.
Posted by: Bill Walsh at July 26, 2008 09:45 PM
Bill:
Yes, I've heard that Gilda quote too. And I've heard almost the same quote attributed to Cary Grant remarking on his multiple marriages.
I think almost every Hollywood star can relate.
Thanks so much for the words of nechama, comfort. Knowing that others care helps more than you could imagine.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech
at July 27, 2008 06:03 AM
