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August 20, 2008
The Moroccan Amen

Cup used for ritual hand washing
FADE IN:
My friend Treppenwitz AKA David Bogner, his lovely and lively wife Zehava, Karen and I are starving.
We don't have time for dinner because we have to get to Jerusalem to attend the First International Jewish Blogger's Conference hosted by Nefesh B'Nefesh and powered by Webads.
We are already running late when we discover that the Tunnel Road is closed due to an accident.
David says: “We're going through one of the Cousin's villages.”
Cousins. That's what we call the Arabs.
The Arab village is spread out over several hundred acres and sparsely populated, save for a cluster of dazzling white luxury villas built on the high ground.
Such multi-story villas almost always belong to terrorists high-up in the food chain of whatever murderous faction they belong to. Terror pays—very nicely. And U.S. tax dollars help support and prop up these killers, as does current Israeli government policy.
Almost an hour late for the conference, we pretty much miss the food. David runs to join a panel while Karen and I manage to find seats in the filled to capacity room.
SMASH CUT:
After the conference, faint with hunger, David and Zehava take us to Sima's, on Agrippas Street in Machane Yehuda. David, with the voice of a true believer, informs us that Sima's has the best spring chicken in Israel.
David is very serious about this restaurant. Apparently there is a competitor down the street and there are those who say that place has the best spring chicken in Israel.
David says it's a bit of a religious war between the two factions.
Me, I'll eat wood chips I'm so hungry.
Before we eat, I mount the stairs to wash my hands.
There is a Moroccan mother—her Hebrew accent is distinctively Moroccan—with a brood of children near the washing station. Mom's eyes are painted in blue eye-shadow and her glue-on lashes are a bit on the goopy side. She wears spray-on jeans and a scoop neck blouse that leaves little to the imagination. Leopard print high-heels round out Mom's wardrobe. Her hair is doing that scary Amy Winehouse thing.
Not exactly a refined Coco Chanel look.
Anyway, Mom is getting her kids to wash their hands with soap and water. Every once in a while she gives one of the frisky pre-teens a light swat, saying “Maher, maher!” Hurry, hurry.
I wait patiently for the kids to clear away so I can ritually wash my hands before eating bread.
But then Mom sees me, and she firmly orders her children to step back.
“Clear away, clear away, the gentleman needs to wash.”
The kids, hands dripping with soap, all step back a few paces and looked at me with round, moist eyes.
Mom motions for me to step forward.
In Hebrew I say: “No problem, let your children finish cleaning their hands.”
“No, no, yours is more important, please, sir.”
Mom uses the formal Hebrew word, “Adoni.”
I wash and Mom carefully tears off a paper towel and reverently hands it to me.
I say the b'racha, the blessing.
And Mom answers “Amen, amen, v'amen.”
Mom makes eye contact with me and gives me the sweetest most lovely smile I have ever seen since, well, since Shirley Temple dazzled American audiences in the depths of the depression.
I exchange a long look with Mom. I can't thank her because between the time you wash and say the b'racha, and the time when you eat the bread, one is not allowed to speak.
To show my gratitude, I give a formal little bow of the head.
I feel like Mr. Darcy in Pride and Prejudice.
Mom bows her head too. Bows her head lower than mine.
And in that moment I no longer see the bright blue eye shadow, the false eyelashes, the saber-like nails lacquered red as a Chinese vase. I no longer see the unfortunate hair and heels.
I feel ashamed of my previous harsh judgment for now I see a truer picture. I gaze upon a fine Jewish woman who loves Torah and Judaism. I see a worthy descendant of the four biblical matriarchs, Sarah, Rivkah, Rachel and Leah.
And a few minutes later, I eat the best meal of my life.
FADE TO BLACK
Posted by Robert J. Avrech at August 20, 2008 10:47 PM
Comments
Seraphic Secret is private property, that's right, it's an extension of our home, and as such, Karen and I have instituted two Seraphic Rules and we ask commentors to act respectfully.
1. No profanity.2. No Israel bashing. We debate, we discuss, we are respectful. You know what Israel bashing is. The world is full of it. Seraphic Secret is one of the few places in the world that will not tolerate this form of anti-Semitism. That's it. Break either of these rules and you will be banned.
Nice to meet you Robert. I am sorry that I couldn't stay to meet Karen, but I had a long drive home.
In terms of your encounter last night - I had a similar experience in a doctor's waiting room. This time, though, the lady took out a scarf from her huge purse, and proceeded to open a book of Tehillim (Psalms) and recite. I love this country!
Posted by: westbankmama at August 21, 2008 01:31 AM
It was really nice meeting you last night. Your moment at the washing station is why I love this country so much. Israelis, even the most secular, are connected. They have to be just because they walk G-d's given land.
Enjoy the rest of your stay.
Posted by: Baila at August 21, 2008 01:45 AM
Good story! I'm getting hungry just thinking about that chicken, wondering how it was prepared and all. And I would have had the same initial reaction as you, incidentally, upon seeing that crazy hair and those nails. Please keep writing stories like that!
Posted by: David at August 21, 2008 02:41 AM
" ... Mom answers “Amen, amen, v'amen.” ... "
when my father was terminally ill with lung cancer, he was in Shaarei Tzedek, and i stayed there over Shabbos
Shaarei Tzedek has an elaborate generous hospitality program for Shabbos, but it was 8 flights down from where i was, and i didn't want to leave.
in the next bed, there was an elderly Sefardi man on a respirator, and his wife and daughter were staying with him,
his daughter was looked pretty much like the woman in your description, but with jeans and flip-flops
she understood, that like them, i was going to stay by the bedside
volunteers came and brought us all Shabbos meals,
and she approached and asked shyly if i could make Kiddush for her and her mother
i brought over the wine to her father's bedside,
and they abruptly stood up in reverent attention, and remained standing until after Kiddush,
and both answered, “Amen, amen, v'amen.”
even the Arab women visiting their relative on the same ward, were touched with awe ...
Posted by: exdemexlib at August 21, 2008 06:03 AM
Only in Israel. What a great story. (Glad you didn't have to eat wood chips!)
Posted by: orieyenta at August 21, 2008 07:30 AM
It's the Sefardic thing more than the Israeli thing. Even though a lot of our brethren from "edot hamizrach" aren't observant, they didn't have any intellectuals in the old country redefining Judaism (and denigrating traditional Judaism), so many of them they still look up to those who embody the Torah ideal.
Just one question - I'm sorry, Robert - what's a "smash cut?"
Posted by: alterbentzion at August 21, 2008 07:58 AM
Sweet story.
Posted by: kishke at August 21, 2008 08:07 AM
I kind of agree with alterbentzion, though I should add that on a percentage basis, there are more observant jews amongst the edot ha mizrach than amongst Ashkenazic Jewry and in general our level of Jewish literacy is higher as well. As we become more integrated with the Jewish population at large, this will likely change - but to date I have never had a Sephardic kid on a Birthright trip ask me "Dude? Who is this Hashem guy every keeps talking about?"
Posted by: ck at August 21, 2008 08:43 AM
Robert, I'm sure your Emmy was a great and deserved honor; but in my book, you earned a great deal more by writing that evocative and poignant story. There is a pronounced tendency in Israel to denigrate the Jews who come from the Levant, based on their simplicity and dress. But, as you say, they often have a deep emotional spirituality from which we can learn a great deal.
Posted by: Barzilai at August 21, 2008 08:45 AM
ROBERT:
i love mahane yehuda. one of these days i'll put up the post about it that i've been planning for 2 years.
what's a smash cut?
regarding the religious reverence and traditional observances (i.e., masorati with a lower-case m) of the edot ha-mizrah: my impression is that this only describes the older generations. many (most?) of the younger generation today who are not outright dati are pretty much just as hiloni as their ashkenazi peers.
Posted by: Lion of Zion at August 21, 2008 12:36 PM
Yes, the war between Sima and Sami which is just across the same side of the street is notorious (and they may even have been one management at one time). I and my kids prefer Sima. The amount of varied salads, usually 10, that are placed down is amazing. If you go back, try the garlic spread. Last time I was there, on Jabotinsky's yahrtzeit in July, I ordered a steak and it came, completely covering the large plate and I innocently asked "but doesn't it come with salad and chips?" and my daughter kicked me under the table, "abba, that'll all be on the next plate."
Regards to Karen. And a gutten shabbes.
Posted by: Yisrael Medad at August 21, 2008 01:57 PM
From Wikipedia:
A smash cut is technique in film and other moving visual media where one scene abruptly cuts to another without transition, usually meant to startle the audience.
Posted by: Lance at August 21, 2008 02:59 PM
The last time I was at Sima's must have been over ten year's ago-- and I've never forgotten it! Your posts just keep getting better and better...
Enjoy your trip!
Posted by: Yael at August 21, 2008 04:38 PM
You're killing me. (I mean, in the way that leaves one feelnig more alive.)
Posted by: Jeremiah at August 21, 2008 05:33 PM
I like the way the different blogger characters interact. It's kinda like when people from one sitcom visit another.
Posted by: mata hari at August 21, 2008 09:09 PM
i am a new reader, and loving every word. what an awesome post.
Posted by: Hadassah at August 21, 2008 09:14 PM
Our experience is different from Lion of Zion's--our 'adopted family' (they 'adopted' us) is of Moroccan origin, and while the parents are very devout and observant, their son is 'masorti', yet more familiar with the Torah than many of my dati leumi friends; very much in awe of H"S; what we would call in the Old Country "G-d-fearing"; very respectful of all older people; slides shekalim to the needy when he thinks no one is looking; not at all chiloni and thinks that is an Ashkenazi affliction in any event. He is very traditional, very Jewish, very good-hearted--and in his thirties. I decided to put away my preconceptions about Yiddishkeit and observance here in light of two events: a bus ride wherein a girl rather skimpily dressed interrupted her Tehillim so she could offer me her seat vs. the observant black-hatted individual of male persuasion who tried to trample me then knock me out of the way to get on the bus first.
Posted by: aliyah06 at August 22, 2008 04:06 AM
Thank you for hastening the Geula, as only ahavat Yisrael can. Each kind word that a Jew has for another Jew, each light shone on our brother's exceptional character traits, rather than on his failings, can only please our mutual Tatte b'Shomayim.
Posted by: rutimizrachi at August 29, 2008 12:35 AM
