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August 01, 2008
Seraphic Reader Visits Israel—For the First Time.
Regular visitors to Seraphic Secret's comments section are, by now, familiar with Dr. Carol, a devout Christian friend whose articulate and passionate observations about Israel, politics and culture, regularly grace this cyber space. Recently, Dr. Carol, with her mother and youngest daughter, visited Israel for the very first time. We asked Dr. Carol to jot down a few impressions of her long-awaited pilgrimage. In truth, we were prepared for an enthusiastic and chatty travelogue. We should have known better. More than anything, Dr. Carol documents a journey inward and creates a moving and loving kesher, mystical connection, to our deepest emotions. We are deeply grateful. RJA
by Dr. Carol

My youngest daughter wanted to see the Mediterranean, and so we drove to
Nahariya—what a beautiful drive that was. She stood on the pier waiting for the
big wave to come and soak her, and I managed to catch the shot at the moment
before the water crashed all over her. Everyone on the pier enjoyed watching
this little drama immensely.
I’ve wanted to go to Israel since I was five. I sat at my dad’s feet as he read the Bible to us each evening, listening to the wonderful stories from the Torah and fascinated by the thought that G-d had chosen a People. I remember asking Dad if we were Jewish and being very disappointed to find out we were not.
All through junior high and high school I read (several times) every Leon Uris novel I could get my hands on; I read Chaim Potok. I bought the special Life magazine issue on the Six Day War. I watched both Entebbe TV movies. More than anything, I wanted to go to Israel. My parents went on a tour with my aunt in 1998 and again in 2002, but I couldn’t seem to get the money together for a trip. I didn’t even have a passport.
Thanks to the prodding (okay, nagging) of my best friend and world traveler Christy, I finally applied for a passport in 2007. Still, the only place I went with it was Canada, which really doesn’t count as traveling—at least not to this Buffalo native, used to bopping over to Fort Erie for Chinese food on a whim.
How Far From Prishtina to Israel?
Then came Kosova. My university has a campus in Prishtina, and we were offering a master’s program that included a course I teach here at home. Part of the course is taught online, and then there’s a week of intensive classes at the Prishtina site. The university was paying my airfare to Kosova. Hmmm, I thought. How far is it from Prishtina to Israel, and would it be possible for me to make a side trip after my week of classes? It was, indeed possible! Just a quick and fairly cheap hop from Istanbul to Tel Aviv, and my first visit to Israel became a reality. My mom and youngest daughter flew from the US to Tel Aviv to meet me, and we were off on our adventure.
I’m a farmer’s granddaughter. Land, and soil, means something to me. I didn’t expect to see a first-century Israel, like the pictures in my Bible. So my plan was to tour the land, not the typical Christian sites. I wanted to walk the shores of the Galilee, see the valley between Nazareth and Cana, go up Mt. Hermon, stroll the streets of Jerusalem, walk among the whispering ghosts of Masada. I wanted to see what drew people to this land, what made G-d choose this place over all others, and maybe understand a bit more why there is so much dispute over this hot, dusty, rocky spot.

Stepping into the Sea of Galilee
With my first glimpse of a glowing moon reflected in the Sea of Galilee I was hooked. It felt like home but not like home, if that makes any sense. The names were familiar; we delighted in visiting Nazareth, Cana, Migdal, Tiberias, Abu Ghosh, Jerusalem, Ein Gedi—all places we knew from our daily Bible reading. We marveled over Mt. Tabor and told my daughter the tale of Deborah and Barak, and of Jael, who vanquished Sisera with a tent peg. We stood on the summit of Arbel and gazed at the valley below, amazed at the drama of this landscape. We have hundreds of pictures and not one does justice to what our eyes beheld.
The Great Israeli T-Shirt
If the land was, without exception, dramatic and beautiful, the people were, without exception, warm and welcoming. We were so obviously American that the first question was always “What do you think of Obama?” One gentleman engaged us in a discussion of Obama vs. McCain for quite a while, then sighed and said “Hashem will have to do His will.” We agreed. Our Arab cab driver cocked an eyebrow when I said Obama was bad for both the US and Israel. But he didn’t argue.
Many years ago my aunt brought a T-shirt for my son from Jerusalem. It had a picture of a fighter jet on it, and the words “Don’t worry, America—Israel is behind you.” He was sad when he outgrew the shirt. The first thing I bought in Jerusalem was the same T-shirt, only in a larger size. As an American, I am grateful Israel is behind us. My worry, and the worry of those I met in Jerusalem, is that an Obama-led America will not stand behind Israel.
By far the hardest part of the journey was the visit to Yad Vashem. We never made it all the way through. I have read a lot about the Holocaust, but the sheer volume of material to look at and read and shudder over was too much to take in at once. My daughter, who is not a history buff and was being exposed to much of this information for the first time, seemed on the verge of tears as she remarked that she was ashamed our country did not do more. Truly we have much to answer for. I only hope Obama learned something from his visit, but I am not sanguine.
Visions of Ariel ZT'L
Seraphic Secret, and Ariel ZT’L in particular, was never far from my thoughts as we walked about Jerusalem. I saw him in every black-hatted young man striding by me, those who greeted me with a smiling “Shalom” and those who could not look in my direction. We were privileged to stand at the Kotel and offer prayers; I thought of Ariel as my hand touched the cool stones, and my throat tightened at the realization of where I was.
Being in Israel wasn’t without challenges. It’s time to learn some Hebrew; while Seraphic Secret has taught me a few words (interestingly enough, “kallah” in particular came in handy), the language barrier was difficult but not insurmountable.

When we were walking through Yemin Moshe we saw a bridal party come out of a house and go to the windmill for pictures. An older gentlemen was standing there watching, and followed the party to their waiting car and stood by as they got in and drove off. We walked through the park and sat on a bench to rest for a bit and enjoy the cool evening, and he came by. He struck up a conversation and we asked him if he knew who the bride and groom were. He didn't understand, so I asked if he knew the kallah and then he understood. So the little Hebrew lessons from Seraphic Secret came in handy!
Israeli Signage: Fuggedaboutit
The guide book neglected to tell us that speed limit signs were round circles. Signage was minimal and sometimes non-existent. A motel would have been nice. The heat was, at times, oppressive. I didn’t find driving to be tough, but then I’ve driven in a lot of big cities and I’m not afraid to show some chutzpah, as the Hertz agent advised.
I did not, though, like the big “Hertz” signs on both sides of the car; nothing like advertising “here’s a tourist, probably with money”. Not that I had much money; I am an assistant professor, after all—but still it made me uneasy. We were wary of towns with a preponderance of Arabic signs and avoided taking route 90 north to Tiberias on our way back from Masada. We learned how to haggle with Jerusalem shopkeepers, a skill we’d not had before. We met a shopkeeper from Chicago who called us “neighbor” and commiserated over the lack of signage that had stymied and confused us so many times.
We saw so much, and yet there is so much left to see. We visited Oskar Schindler’s grave and left stones in respect for his bravery. We hoped that we would be as brave, should we be called upon to be so. We rode the cable car up Masada’s slopes, imagining what the band of Zealots on the mountain thought as they saw the magnitude of the Roman camps and the steady, inexorable growth of the siege ramp that would spell their doom. We dipped our hands in the slimy, warm waters of the Dead Sea and burned our palms on beach rocks gathered for souvenirs. We took our shoes off and waded in the Sea of Galilee, drinking in the beauty of those blue waters and the mountains ringing them.
Home
We looked around and saw history, a history we knew as well—or better—than our own country’s history, and realized that Israel felt like home because it was. Before I learned of Paul Revere and Joshua Chamberlain and Dwight Eisenhower, I knew the stories of Jonah and David and Gideon. Just as the New England of my ancestors is part of my blood and bones, the Israel of my G-d is part of my heart and soul.
Our visit was during the heat of summer. My mother wants to see the land in bloom, and although professors don’t get vacations in April, I’m already planning a way to carve out five or six days to take her there. If there’s time, I need to finish what we started at Yad Vashem. I didn’t see the Jordan River or the villages on the western banks of the Sea of Galilee. I want to go back to the BaFi café in Neve Ativ for more of their fabulous salad and bread with garlic butter. I want to explore Afula in the daytime, not when I’m lost in its traffic circles at midnight.
I have to go back.
Karen and I wish all our friends a lovely and meaningful Shabbat.
Posted by Robert J. Avrech at August 1, 2008 08:37 AM
Comments
Seraphic Secret is private property, that's right, it's an extension of our home, and as such, Karen and I have instituted two Seraphic Rules and we ask commentors to act respectfully.
1. No profanity.2. No Israel bashing. We debate, we discuss, we are respectful. You know what Israel bashing is. The world is full of it. Seraphic Secret is one of the few places in the world that will not tolerate this form of anti-Semitism. That's it. Break either of these rules and you will be banned.
" ... So my plan was to tour the land, not the typical Christian sites ... "
...
"...Our visit was during the heat of summer. My mother wants to see the land in bloom, and although professors don’t get vacations in April, I’m already planning a way to carve out five or six days to take her there ..."
maybe on the second trip you can visit the historical Biblical sites
there is a wonderful tour of The Western Wall that goes inside
the Bible says that the Stone of the Ten Commandments and the Ark, were NOT in the Holy of Holies within the Second Temple, but were in fact hidden, deep inside and underneath the Temple Mount,
and remain so until this very day,
so that when people pray at the foot of the wall
today, much below the Temple Mount, they are closer to the Ten Commandments and the Ark
(the Indiana Jones screen-writer and editor didn't really do their research ...
am 'shocked' at Hollywood 8^))
one other suggestion,
visit King David's Tomb in Jerusalem
and recite the Psalms there ...
(there are usually 20 -50 people, but not crowded enough to approach the Tomb, or to get a seat in front of it and recite the Psalms)
am sure that many readers here have lots of suggestions on what you simply *must* do on your next trip,
so,
maybe they can all comment,
(and you might see that you could use more than one return trip ...)
Posted by: exdemexlib at August 1, 2008 09:13 AM
Frequent reader, never commenter but thank you so much for posting this, it feeds my own desire to visit Israel and is obviously beautifully heart felt.
Posted by: Merry at August 1, 2008 09:52 AM
Carol, lovely piece! If on your next trip you need an excellent guide for the tunnels alongside the Kosel, drop me a line (kishkeyum@yahoo.com); I know just the guy.
Posted by: kishke at August 1, 2008 10:23 AM
Dr. Carol:
Your enthusiasm for my countries heritage is heart warming.
Before making aliya I too had the same yearning you had to visit Israel. I finally visited for the first time when I was in my 20's.
After living here(studying abroad) for several years I returned home to the states but found myself in the most precarious situation, I felt out of place in the counry I was born and raised in.
To me Israel had become my real home and I was only a visitor in the US.
I remember living in NY during the 1st Iraqi war watching Scuds fall on Tel-Aviv , tears welling up in my eyes as my 'home' was under attack.
I knew then that my place was here, in Israel.
Carol your essay reminds me why I love my country and my people.
Thank You
Posted by: Gregg at August 1, 2008 10:23 AM
Dr. Carol, Your reflections on your visit to Israel are so pure and yes, holy, that they should remind all Zionists of the elemental reasons we treasure our Homeland. Most travelogues that are written about Israel give minor note to the history and native beauty of the land and highlight the modernity and technological "hipness" of our country. Perhaps that is where we have gone astray. We are not like every other nation, we are Chosen. The land itself has a Kedusha, a Holiness, and you have described it exquisitely. Thank you. You have done a tremendous mitzvah - good deed.
Posted by: Karen Avrech at August 1, 2008 10:39 AM
Dr. Carol, my brother is a marketing and public relations manager for the Israel Tourist Board.
No doubt you could be too with this wonderful and apt description of your trip to Israel. I hope that you will get to go again...and again...and again....
Posted by: Pearl at August 1, 2008 10:52 AM
Dr. Carol,
That was a truly beautiful description. Thank you for sharing it with us!
Posted by: Dovid at August 1, 2008 11:16 AM
I really enjoyed this, reminded me of my trip to Israel in 2003.
As a practicing Catholic, I feel very fortunate that the Jewish people control the bulk of our Holy Sites. Nice to be able to pray and meditate in peace without looking over your shoulder for Hamas or worrying about pushy Palestinian merchants (bad experience in East Jerusalem).
One thing to note about Jerusalem. The Jews actually treat the Old City as if it's a place of God. The ancient architecture was simply immaculate, not a spot of trash to be seen. Walking through the Arab controlled Lion's Gate... ugh. Piles of trash everywhere. Nothing was landscaped, nothing cared for. I remember thinking that if the Palestinians channeled a fraction of the energy they spend lighting fires and killing into keeping their quarter of Jerusalem clean, people might actually believe that they have a legitimate claim to the place.
Posted by: John at August 1, 2008 11:19 AM
Nice story. I am glad that you had such a good trip.
Posted by: Jack at August 1, 2008 11:39 AM
"Israel felt like home because it was".
A beautiful line above, Dr. Carol. I remember feeling that same way when I first was there many years ago, and my daughter, who went for the first time to Israel this spring talked of the same feelings.
The entire post about your trip was wonderful and I too hope you get to go numerous times (and thank you, Robert, for putting this on your site).
Posted by: Maurice at August 1, 2008 12:40 PM
Shalom Aleichem.
Dr. Carol,
I am so glad you were are to go to Israel. May the memories of your trip bless and inspire you always, and may you return many times.
I am a nurse in an emergency department, and a former sniper with the 82nd Airborne Division. I would love to visit Israel, and it is the only other country beside the USA I would consider living in.
Thank you for the wonderful and inspiring article. Bless you and your family.
Posted by: Alan Briley, RN at August 2, 2008 01:38 PM
Thank you all for your kind comments, and for the suggestions for the next trip(s). We are already planning--G-d knows where the money will come from, but He will provide.
exdemlib, I was at King David's tomb but I think it was in the basement! We wandered into the Armenian quarter and saw a sign for the tomb but didn't want to get lost so we wandered back out. I drove 1470 Km during that trip; about 80% of it was in the correct direction.
Kishke, I will definitely contact you when we are sure of dates and stuff. Merry, you have GOT to go! Trust me! Gregg--I know exactly what you mean. Pearl, David, John, Jack, Maurice and Alan-thanks for the compliments, they are much appreciated. I hope I get to go many times also!
Karen, your praise is precious to me.
If any of you are interested in the "enthusiastic and chatty travelogue", I am slowly getting posts up on my blog (boringdrmomDOTblogspotDOTcom) with more pictures. Slowly because I am now behind on my summer classes and scrambling to catch up.
Once again, thank you all. I'm happy you liked the piece, and was glad to Robert a bit of a rest so he could work on the next Hebrew Kid book...
Posted by: DrCarol at August 3, 2008 05:25 PM
This makes me both jealous and slightly ashamed...I need to do thid also.
Posted by: thud at August 4, 2008 05:47 PM
I need to do thid also.
Imagine, thud doing thid. That's not something I'd want to miss.
Posted by: kishke at August 4, 2008 09:04 PM
Now I'm afraid that "thid" is something dubious!...for a Brit this site is a minefield..ha!
Posted by: thud at August 6, 2008 09:20 AM
Dr. Carol
I came across your site while looking for commentary on the "inside" assassination of PM Rabin.
I share your frustration with the "Anti Israel" types around the world.
Over the years what has bothered me is the Capo's - we all know who they are. The G_odless ones and who are proud of their being G_dless. (least they someday face Hashem - and they will)
After the War (WWII) Israelis - those ones who love G_d's land allowed these persons to immigrate. The Capo's brought with them their hatred of their fellow Jews, the hatred that they practiced so well in the Camps.
These Capos raised their own children to think like them. We see today in Israel where the sons and the daughters and now even the grandchildren of the Capos hold sway as MK's and "Liberal" journalists.
This is the source of growth of the rats nest of what is euphemistically called "Secularism" in Israel. I say euphemistically because secularism is just as anti-Israeli and anti Jew just as much as it it anti-any religion. A triumph for the Capo's and their descendent's.
This secular government of Israel is incompatible with any idea of a Jewish Homeland or an Israel as any would know it.
These secularists are pretending to combat an Islamist enemy that not only wants to push Israel into the see but wants to also end western civilization as we know it. The point of a sword does get so much more done than the power of a pen! And the Capo's do not care.
Until those who follow the living G_d stand up in faith then the secularists will dominate. When the faithful again shine bright then the secularist will be forced back into their holes of darkness where they will remain.
Until then the future of Israel will continue to grow dim.
It takes men like like you son to see what is going on and to have fought against it.
Posted by: David at November 2, 2009 07:34 PM
I am sorry and please forgive me my last posting was meant to be addressed to Robert Avrech
I had placed Dr. Carol's name in error
Posted by: David at November 2, 2009 07:38 PM
Mr. Avrech
I came across your site while looking for commentary on the "inside" assassination of PM Rabin.
I share your frustration with the "Anti Israel" types around the world.
Over the years what has bothered me is the Capo's - we all know who they are. The G_odless ones and who are proud of their being G_dless. (least they someday face Hashem - and they will)
After the War (WWII) Israelis - those ones who love G_d's land allowed these persons to immigrate. The Capo's brought with them their hatred of their fellow Jews, the hatred that they practiced so well in the Camps.
These Capos raised their own children to think like them. We see today an Israel where the sons and the daughters and now even the grandchildren of the Capos hold sway as MK's and "Liberal" journalists.
This is the source of growth of the rats nest of what is euphemistically called "Secularism" in Israel. I say euphemistically because secularism is just as anti-Israeli and anti Jew just as much as it it anti-any religion. A triumph for the Capo's and their descendent's. This secular government of Israel is incompatible with any idea of a Jewish Homeland or an Israel as any would know it.
These secularists are pretending to combat an Islamist enemy that not only wants to push Israel into the see but wants to also end western civilization as we know it. The point of a sword does get so much more done than the power of a pen!
Until those who follow the living G_d stand up in faith then the secularists will dominate. When the faithful again shine bright then the secularist will be forced back into their holes of darkness where they will remain.
Until then the future of Israel will continue to grow dim.
It takes men like like you son to see what is going on and to have fought against it.
Posted by: David at November 2, 2009 07:40 PM
