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February 19, 2010
Friday Fashion
Butterfly hat by Phillip Treacy for Alexander McQueen.
As a Hollywood screenwriter I've had the privilege of working with the hugely talented and conscientious craftsmen who labor behind the scenes of every movie and TV show. These are the people who create a universe of influential images that are the cultural engine for most every society on earth.
Wardrobe Designers hold a special place in my heart. I marvel at their ability to transform ordinary young men and women into objects of universal desire.
Contemporary fashion, the world of couture, frightfully thin models and diva designers, seems, at first glance, to exist in some rarified galaxy, but if you look carefully at today's fashion one can almost always find a classic Hollywood version.
Fashion Week in New York premiered several lovely, even wearable—if you're a size 2 and made out of money—collections. In particular, Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta and Proenza Schouler showed confident, compelling and elegant creations.
But the entire affair took place under the cloud of Alexander McQueen's suicide.
McQueen, a young, hugely talented and provocative designer, sprang from the English working class—his father was a taxi driver. The forty-year old designer admitted to past drug and alcohol use. The image he projected was that of an angry young man. Sadly, McQueen's rage was profoundly inner-directed. His death is a tragedy and we offer our condolences to family and friends.
We especially take note of McQueen because his pricey, outrageous, scary shoes, made frequent appearances in our popular Friday Footwear editions.
All shoes by Alexander McQueen.
Alexander McQueen's last collection is startling but strangely beautiful. The theme of reptiles and birds dominated the cat walk. The dresses are notable for flowing sculptural lines, exquisite cut and drape, Victorian nipped-waists, and a poodle-skirt silhouette. The collection stirs up the image of a lizard exploding on the surface of an Audubon painting. McQueen's vibrant colors, with computer generated patterns, are nicely resolved and ultimately give the impression of a flirtatious young woman from another eco-system who wants you—for lunch.
From Alexander McQueen's Spring 2010 collection.
McQueen, along with several other important designers, showcased hats with their collections.
Seraphic Secret has, in the past, blogged about Hollywood hats, but here we're interested in contemporary millinery and their Hollywood antecedents.
Narciso Rodriguez featured this oversized leather pillbox hat. Its volume and weight appear military, like a bunker buster about to take flight.
Loretta Young, one of the most elegant Hollywood stars, strikes a rather wooden pose—studio portraits in the 50's were in decline—in a more traditional black pillbox hat.
Phillip Treacy for Alexander McQueen. Totally theatrical. The reference is to Chinese opera by way of the imperial Chinese menagerie. Hey, this might be a fab-u-lous look for that over-the-top Beverly Hills Bar Mitzvah.
Myrna Loy has been there and done that. Before settling into sophisticated comedy, most notably The Thin Man series, Montana-born Loy was frequently cast as an exotic vamp.
Down to Mexico for bad boy Jean Paul Gaultier. There were numerous interpretations of the traditional sombrero. Quite compelling when sitting atop Gaultier's signature corset armor outfits.
Playful in an oversize sombrero, Rita Hayworth, real name Margarita Carmen Cansino, started her career as a teenage flamenco dancer. Hayworth hated being a movie star and claimed she was only happy on-screen when dancing.
Phillip Treacy for Alexander McQueen. Women's hats have, from earliest times, been about brilliant plumage. This lively, sleek creation is like some lovely bird of prey.
Before settling into comedy, Lucille Ball was groomed by the studios as a glamor girl. Here's Lucy displaying serious plumage. No doubt, that's how she snared the love of her life, serial adulterer Desi Arnez.
Karen and I wish all our friends and relatives a lovely and meaningful Shabbat.
Posted by Robert J. Avrech at February 19, 2010 08:11 AM
Comments
Seraphic Secret is private property, that's right, it's an extension of our home, and as such, Karen and I have instituted two Seraphic Rules and we ask commentors to act respectfully.
1. No profanity.2. No Israel bashing. We debate, we discuss, we are respectful. You know what Israel bashing is. The world is full of it. Seraphic Secret is one of the few places in the world that will not tolerate this form of anti-Semitism. That's it. Break either of these rules and you will be banned.
Hats off to you, Robert, on your head-turning post. You just added another feather in your cap, as your post was brimming with great photos and insights.
To top this off, I just want to wish you a good Shabbos.
Posted by: Pearl at February 19, 2010 09:08 AM
Pearl:
Five puns in one comment. Quite a hat trick. Have a great Shabbos.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech at February 19, 2010 03:53 PM
Am I alone in thinking that high fashion - at least from the 1980s - is totally impractical?
What woman would actually wear most of this stuff shown on the runway?
I see pictures of Paris fashions from the 1950s and 60s and think they are beautiful. Look at the latest ones, including McQueen's - and they seem freakish.
But then by such a proclamation I assume I am a country bumpkin.
On McQueen's suicide: I think if he had taken a week or 2 off , head for the mountains with a tent he would have gotten his head straight.
Posted by: Bill Brandt at February 19, 2010 10:05 PM
My paternal grandmother was a milliner in Oklahoma before she married. Have some great pictures of her in hats.
In the 80's I had quite a hat collection.
Posted by: Jackie W. at February 20, 2010 09:39 AM
I'm not so into modern fashion, but I LOVE the 3rd shoe/sandal!
I can wear those kind of heals (or any kind, anymore) but I love those shoes!!
Posted by: RivkA at February 20, 2010 04:06 PM
Dear Robert: Shavuah Tov. Can you think of any non-comic Lucille Ball movies that are available on DVD? I always enjoy seeing what big stars did before they were type-cast.
Posted by: Miranda Rose Smith at February 21, 2010 04:02 AM
Most of the models look depressingly skinny.
Posted by: carl at February 21, 2010 06:50 PM
Thank you for the look!
Posted by: Sharin Barber at February 23, 2010 07:36 AM
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech at February 23, 2010 03:46 PM
Jackie W:
Coco Chanel started her career as a milliner.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech at February 23, 2010 03:47 PM
Bill:
Couture fashion is not supposed to be practical, its designed to appeal to immensely wealthy women so thay can help set trends. Usually, the haute fashions trickle down to ordinary people. For instance, the McQueen patterns will probably be copied on t-shirts and low-priced dresses.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech at February 23, 2010 03:50 PM
Rivka A:
I've seen the McQueen shoe for which you lust for about $700.
Good luck!
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech at February 23, 2010 03:52 PM
Carl:
Most models I've met are not really pretty, but sort of freakish and yes, horrifyingly thin. Eating disorders are the norm.
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech at February 23, 2010 03:54 PM
Sharin:
You're welcome. Enjoy!
Posted by: Robert J. Avrech at February 23, 2010 03:56 PM