Edith Head and Gloria Swanson on the set of “Sunset Boulevard,” 1950.
Legendary Hollywood costume designer Edith Head (1897 – 1981) was known for her even disposition, her practical approach to seemingly impossible problems and her ability to costume every genre of film: westerns, musicals, comedies, and biblical spectacles. In her long career she is credited with over 500 motion pictures, more than any other designer in movie history. She received an astonishing eight Oscars and thirty-three nominations for the award. Edith Head was the only Hollywood costume designer with public name recognition.
In 1967, she published a book, How to Dress for Success.
In this primer for ladies Head offers advice on dressing well with an eye towards getting a good job and, even more important, how to get and keep a husband.
My very favorite quote:
“Frequently at parties and premieres attended by Hollywood stars, visitors are shocked when they see the wives of our handsomest film stars. These men who work constantly with women who are the epitome of glamor, very often marry women who are quite ordinary to look at. The unknowing are inclined to ask “How on earth did she ever get him?” I can tell you because I know. She interested him more than any other woman.”
The book feels like a telegram from a bygone era. Head talks about “hunting for a man.” But rather than sit back and feel all superior Seraphic Secret finds acute wisdom in Head’s advice. For the most part—hostess pajamas?—her smart, no-nonsense approach to fashion is classic and timeless.
Here’s her advice on lingerie:
1. Evaluate your present collection of girdles, bras, foundation garments for (a) condition, (b) efficiency.
2. Seek the advice of the experienced corsetière in your favorite store to find the right garment to improve your figure.
3. Buy underwear (slips, petticoats) that coordinates with your foundations in color, trim, and type.
4. Remember that last year’s shape may be wrong for this year’s silhouette.
5. If you wouldn’t want anyone to see you in your undies — get new ones.
Alfred Hitchcock and Edith Head.
Karen and I wish all our friends and relatives a lovely and inspiring Shabbat.
Ariel Chaim Avrech, ZT'L, May His Righteous Memory be a Blessing.
15 Comments
I’m old enough to wonder if I should be talking about ladies unmentionables in mixed company, but here goes: it’s almost impossible to find nice slips nowadays. I’ve been unable to find any except online, and while they’re okay, they’re only okay.
Lovely lingerie (and I do not include the current hooker look) helps a lady to feel feminine and polished. The elimination of pretty undergarments (as well as hats, gloves, beautiful shoes and flattering attire) has not served us well.
My family was poor when I was a child, but on Sunday morning we wore nice clothes, hats and gloves.
We looked nice. And as my mother always said: “Casual clothes beget casual behavior.”
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Robert, whenever you have a post referencing Edith Head, I can’t help but think of the Edna Mode (or E. Mode) character from the Disney/Pixar movie “The Incredibles”. The homage was so obvious (and well done) that I googled the credits to see who voiced the role. I was surprised when I discovered that a man, Brad Bird, was the voice of Edna. All is not what it seems in the movie business!
Hope you and Karen have a wonderful holiday weekend!
PJ
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Prophet Joe:
Yes, Edna Mode is an obvious homage to Edith Head. I know people who worked with Head and the stories are… amazing. In Hollywood, costume design is characterized by perhaps, the nastiest back-biting in the known universe.
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Robert – there’s something about a well-dressed – and stylish – woman that makes me want to look back – and look back – until I realize I am starting to look, ugh, well, “stalkingish” for lack of a better term.
Their clothes weren’t always expensive or ornate but they always looked right.
I remember to this day while on leave and in London – seeing a woman in of all things the uniform of the British National Railway – but the design of her hat – the way she wore it – the color of her suit (navy blue) with her honey-blond hair….
I know Edith Head didn’t design the uniform but it, combined with the person – left something that I always remembered.
And this was, lessee, 1974 which makes it (gasp) 37 years ago. I don’t think a woman has to wear the most expensive clothes – some of the most expensive clothes don’t necessarily look tasteful or stylish, or they are on the wrong frame.
I think of Eva Marie Saint in North by Northwest. Audrey Hepburn – Grace Kelley in almost any movie
Not that I am a fashionista – but I have lamented the recent trend of males not always dressing with a minimum of conscientiousness of the occasion.
I recently attended a wedding where one of the guests shows up in jeans and cowboy boots.
Hmm, as long as I am on a roll (at least in my own mind; professional screenwriters may have a different opinion) I have to tell you about a fashion faux pas I committed many years ago (1981) while going to a computer school in San Diego.
I was in a coat-and-tie phase (that could be another subject; not overdressing for an occasion but I digress) and I was wearing a well-tailored Italian suit to the school.
I was that day – to myself, secretly a bit disdainful of all the “peons” and “peasants” in old jeans – etc.
About 6 hours later, still secure in my somewhat smug attitude, I happen to look down…and notice…..
My fly had been down.
Apparently the entire day.
What’s that about hubris?
I do think that God has to have a sense of humor sometimes.
BTW a couple of quotes I found on Wm Wyler I thought you would like (you probably already have heard them but anyway….)
“It’s 80% script and 20% you get great actors. There’s nothing else to it.”
“It’s a miserable life in Hollywood. You’re up at five or six o’clock in the morning to be ready to start shooting at nine. The working hours aren’t arranged to suit the artists and the directors; they’re for the convenience of the technicians. If you go to a party at night, you’ll never find anyone there who’s shooting a picture; they’re all home in bed.”
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Bill:
Sounds like you had a Ben Stiller moment. Hilarious.
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<em> . . .anachronisms. . . </em>
I believe the word you are looking for here, is “class”.
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K:
Classy commment:-)
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Head worked in Hollywood when the look of the performers was an important part of the movie. With the exception of The Devil Wears Prada, movies set in contemporary times seem as if the actors and actresses just brought some clothes and shoes from their personal wardrobe. So much of a character’s personality can be transmitted by what they wear. The Audrey Hepburn look or the Cary Grant look did not just happen. Lula Mae wouldn’t wear what Holly wore and Cary Grant would dress different had he remained Archie Leach.
I have no doubt there are talented costume designers in Hollywood today and just wish directors would use them the way they were in the studio system days. Of course when actresses seem more interested in showing off their latest tattoo instead of projecting an aura of glamour or mystery on the screen it may be a losing battle.
Well-loved. Like or Dislike:
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Johnny:
Costume designers in Hollywood today are hugely talented, but the truth is we don’t make that many period pieces where the craft really shines. It’s just too darned expensive.
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I remember the days when if your bra strap accidentally slipped, a girlfriend would warn you in a frantic whisper, “Your STRAP is showing!” Blushing and mortified, you’d tuck it back saying, “Well at least it’s CLEAN!”
*Sigh* I’m getting old.
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…”It’s snowing down South” for “Your slip is showing.” I miss the days when people thought underwear was private–or had even heard of slips.
And I miss white gloves, which I wore without fail to church when I was a girl. I guess we’re anachronisms, Franny.
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Sometimes things that were done long ago eventually return – for a good reason….
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I like you, Bill Brandt.
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Shyla:
I miss gloves too. Back in Brooklyn, as a child, I loved watching our Christian neighbors walk to Church in their sunday best, which always included snow white gloves.
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Franny:
I actually remember seeing bra straps slip and gazing fascinated as the girl/woman blushed and tucked it back in.
Not old, just wise.
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