Joan Crawford: Untouched/Retouched

Here’s what happens: I snap a picture and she—every she I’ve ever photographed—takes a look at the raw digital image and recoils in horror.

No matter how beautiful the woman or girl she always says:

“Is that what I really look like?”

“I look so old.”

“Delete it.”

On location, I’ve taken photographs of gorgeous and glamorous movie stars and even they claim to be, yup, ugly.

The greatest Hollywood still photographer ever was George Hurrell. During Hollywood’s golden age, in the 1930′s and 40′s, his studio portraits became the desired image of Hollywood beauty and glamor. For a handful of stars Hurrell portraits defined their G-d like images. For years the biggest stars in Hollywood clamored to sit for Hurrell.

What was Hurrell’s secret?

He hated studio make-up.

Normally, Hollywood stars—male and female—slapped on the same heavy make-up that was used in motion pictures, and then posed for the various studio photographers.

The studios valued the stills for publicity purposes. Photos were submitted to the numerous movie magazines. Influential columnists—often accepting pay-offs from studio PR people—published photos that helped stoke public interest in the latest starlet. Before she made a single movie, MGM flooded newspapers and magazines with Ava Gardner’s stunning image.

Hurrell was unhappy with the thick, painted-on look. He felt that what worked in movies did not cross-over into still photographs—at least his vision of what a Hollywood portrait should be. And so Hurrell insisted that the stars scrub their faces clean, and then he lit and shot them with his large format camera.

Hurrell and his staff then spent hours in the dark room retouching the photographs.

He made blemished and freckled skin glow with an inner luminescence, eyes were turned into deep clouds, lips were made sensually moist, and hair shined like a planet.

Here’s a rare Hurrell portrait of Joan Crawford—unretouched.

Crawford Unretouched.jpg

And after six hours of darkroom retouching, here’s Crawford as the public saw her.

Crawford Retouched.jpg

The very best study of Hurrell’s work and methodology is Hurrells’ Hollywood Portraits by Mark A. Vieira.

The George Hurrell Estate.

Update: The beauty blog Jack and Hill has cross-posted this entry. Take a look as Hillary PhotoShops herself, in an effort to achieve the Hurrell glow.

Seraphic Secret Hollywood Profiles

Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner’s Wonderful Time

Joan Crawford Untouched, Retouched

Evelyn Keyes: Scarlett’s Younger Sister

Hollywood Hair

Notable Hollywood Eyebrows Part I and Part II


Cyd Charisse: Dancing Dynamite

Lana Turner: Bad and Beautiful

Hollywood Goes to War


Lillian Gish: Dying for Her Audience

Ricardo Cortez: The Kosher Butcher’s Son

Hollywood’s First Western Hero: Billy Broncho, The Jewish Kid Who Couldn’t Ride a Horse

Sylvia Sidney Replaces Clara Bow

Douglas Sirk Directs Linda Darnell

Less Dialogue is More: Mervyn LeRoy, Vivien Leigh, Robert Taylor and Waterloo Bridge.

Alla Nazimova: Desperately Exotic

Charlton Heston: A Moment of Silence


Lilyan Tashman.

Carmel Myers: The Rabbi’s Beautiful Daughter

Colleen Moore: The Stars and Stripes

Colleen Moore’s Wedding Night

One Hairstyle, Three Memoirs: Alma Rubens, Colleen Moore, Louise Brooks

Theda Bara: The Vamp Adopts the Troops

Movie Magazines: They Don’t Print ‘em Like They Used To

Alma Rubens: Dope Fiend, But Not a Jewess

Wallace Reid: Hollywood Shooting Star

Olive Thomas: Hollywood’s First Suicide

Mary Pickford: The Greatest Movie Star

Seraphic Secret Chats with Actress Coleen Gray about John Wayne, Howard Hawks, and Stanley Kubrick

Louis B. Mayer Goes to Shul

Susan Peters: The Great Unknown and Tragic Actress

The Blond Machine Gun: Jean Harlow

Peg Entwistle & The Hollywood Sign


Brigitte Bardot & Sean Connery in Shalako—Sorta

Michael Kidd: The Last Dance

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19 Comments

  1. k
    Posted October 16, 2008 at 5:31 am | Permalink

    FANTASTAIC!!!!!!! What i wanted to see its amazing someone finally came up with this thankyou.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 1

  2. Neil
    Posted August 11, 2008 at 4:08 pm | Permalink

    for more about Joan Crawford go to legendaryjoancrawford.com

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 1

  3. Neil
    Posted August 11, 2008 at 4:07 pm | Permalink

    for more about Joan Crawford go to legendaryjoancrawford.com

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 1

  4. Robert J. Avrech
    Posted July 27, 2008 at 11:56 am | Permalink

    Gregg:
    Another time. Enjoy Eilat, brings lots and lots of sunscreeen.
    Caroline Glick for Prime Minister of Israel!

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  5. gregg
    Posted July 27, 2008 at 11:36 am | Permalink

    Would love to attend but I think i’m on vacation with the family that week in Eilat.
    PS:
    -you must check out Caroline Glick’ new website carolineglick.com

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  6. Robert J. Avrech
    Posted July 27, 2008 at 10:13 am | Permalink

    Gregg:
    Hey, listen no great chachmas figuring out your prfile once you displayed a preference for the photo of Crawford that, if published, would have caused her to melt in shame.
    I have to cut back on pizza, too many carbs!
    Will you be at the NBN Bloggers conference so I can finally meet you?

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  7. gregg
    Posted July 27, 2008 at 9:49 am | Permalink

    As a matter of fact yesterday evening I spent a glorious evening on the shores of the Mediterranean admiring the sunset with my beautiful wife and youngest daughter.
    Afterward we dined at our favorite nouvelle Italian spot on the beach.
    Man you got me pegged!!
    BTW the Friday Pizza was the best and you never got any Ha Ha :-)

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  8. Robert J. Avrech
    Posted July 27, 2008 at 6:43 am | Permalink

    Gregg:
    You’re crazy :-)
    No, seriously, the whole idea of Hollywood glamor photography is to transcend reality and present an idealized vision of a Hollywood star.
    No one goes to the movies to view reality.
    Anyhoo.
    Gregg meet Alice.
    Alice meet Gregg.
    Gregg enjoys long walks on the beach, sunsets, and Italian neo-realism.
    Alice is spiritual, freckled, and big on the seven Noachide Laws.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  9. Gregg
    Posted July 27, 2008 at 6:33 am | Permalink

    Call me crazy but I think she looks far more beautiful in the untouched photo.
    The ‘photoshopped’ one looks fake an unrealistic.
    I feel that natural beauty is timeless and doesn’t need touchups whether its digitally or chemically induced.
    BTW Alice I think her freckles are kinda sexy.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  10. Robert J. Avrech
    Posted July 24, 2008 at 10:38 pm | Permalink

    Pearl:
    Hurrell started out as a painter. He fell back on photography in order to make some money. But for all his life painting was his first love. You can see Hurrell’s painterly sensibility in his lovingly textured photos, his brilliant use of chiaroscuro, and the bold but simple lines of his striking compositions.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  11. Robert J. Avrech
    Posted July 24, 2008 at 10:33 pm | Permalink

    Simon:
    I’m sure your natural looks are superior to some superficial (but brillaint) PhotoShop makeover.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  12. Robert J. Avrech
    Posted July 24, 2008 at 10:29 pm | Permalink

    Mata Hari:
    They didn’t have Botox during Hollywood’s golden age. But they did have plastic surgery and countless stars availed themselves of surgery in order to maintain their youthful looks and avoid being relegated to character parts.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  13. Robert J. Avrech
    Posted July 24, 2008 at 10:23 pm | Permalink

    Alice:
    We believe you. Really.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  14. Posted July 24, 2008 at 2:25 pm | Permalink

    A photo retoucher AND a plastic surgeon. He even “corrected” her neck. He did clear up freckles on her upper chest, but still left the tan line.
    What a stunning photo–before and after.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  15. Simon
    Posted July 24, 2008 at 1:34 pm | Permalink

    Sigh… I wish I could be photoshopped.
    I can really use the hair!!!! Sharpies Rule.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  16. Posted July 24, 2008 at 12:28 pm | Permalink

    Today she’d be botoxed

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  17. Alice
    Posted July 24, 2008 at 11:52 am | Permalink

    I like her freckles. And I’m not just saying that because I’m covered with them. Really.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  18. Robert J. Avrech
    Posted July 24, 2008 at 11:14 am | Permalink

    PD:
    Yes, astonishing. Today we would photoshop the picture in a few minutes, but I’m pretty sure the results would fall short of Hurrell’s final product. The large format camera and his amazing lenses make all the difference in the world.
    Oh, and we don’t have real Hollywood stars anymore, but celebrities who are famous for being infamous.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

  19. pdwalker
    Posted July 24, 2008 at 10:52 am | Permalink

    That’s absolutely *amazing* darkroom work.

    Like or Dislike: Thumb up 0 Thumb down 0

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