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Jean Harlow propped up on a leaning board between scenes for “Dinner at Eight” (’33). The form fitting silk gown designed by Adrian was so tight that Harlow could not sit. In fact, Harlow was sewn into the gown — sans underwear.
Leaning boards ( also called Slant boards) were invented for Hollywood players to relax between takes. Hollywood costumes were frequently cut on-the-bias, and tailored so snugly that the actor could not sit without bursting a ladder of seams. In fact, most of the time, there were no zippers or buttons on the costumes. Actors were stitched into their garments.
When you see Jean Harlow in Dinner at Eight, and marvel at the impeccable fit of the famous white silk gown, be aware that Harlow’s mobility was severely limited. In fact, just breathing was something of a chore.
Remember, classic Hollywood movies were designed to project images of glamour. For the screen, costumes had to be photogenic. Comfort and practicality were of little concern.
These days, leaning boards are still in use, but they are the exception rather than the rule, for a variety of reasons. Modern fabrics are more forgiving. It is also quite rare for a costume to be designed, cut and sewn, for one actress. Most costumes are off the rack, and modified. Besides, in today’s Hollywood, stars who receive multiple millions for one film are loathe to suffer the indignities of such a tight fit.
Teresa Wright and Joseph Cotten in Shadow of a Doubt, ’43.
Actress Theresa Wright (1918-2005), gained unusual clout in the early stages of her distinguished career when she insisted on a most unusual clause in her 1941 contract with Samuel Goldwyn.
Goldwyn, a talented, but hard-headed Hollywood producer, desperately wanted Wright under contract, and so he swallowed his pride and allowed Wright’s clause to stand.
But he never forgave her effrontery and ended their relationship in 1948.
Wright insisted on being normal. She was a serious actress, and a serious person. Muriel Teresa Wright knew who she was and never allowed herself to undergo a glamorous transformation like so many other young starlets—Ava Gardner, Lana Turner, Rita Hayworth—which led to stardom, but which, arguably, contributed to unhappy, unfulfilled personal lives.